Three days on the Melbourne to Sydney coastal drive – travel guide
A three-day drive from Melbourne to Sydney along the Victorian and New South Wales coasts isn’t exactly a tribute to slow travel, with enough attractions and gastronomic pleasures along the route to fill a week. But allowing for time to dwell in a few well-chosen locations, this road trip offers an enticing taste of regions like Victoria’s East Gippsland and the Sapphire coast in the far south of New South Wales.
It will also draw you into wild national parks like Croajingalong in Victoria and Ben Boyd, over the border, near Eden. Coastal lakes in Gippsland that constitute Australia’s biggest inland waterway, and long, unspoilt beaches, like Ninety Mile form the journey’s dramatic backdrop. And the foreground isn’t bad either, particularly as the route twists and curls through the thick forests around the border.
The route
All the action of the drive is around the A1 Princes Highway, which begins in central Melbourne and continues all the way to Sydney, a distance of 1032kms not including side-trips. The only busy sections are within an hour’s drive of start and finish but otherwise the route is largely traffic-light with attractions providing regular pit-stops.
Must-Visit Sites Along the Melbourne to Sydney Coastal Drive
While the early part of the drive may not offer many attractions, it's worth making a detour to explore the picturesque Mornington Peninsula and the stunning Wilson's Promontory if you have the time. However, the real gems lie further east, specifically at the mesmerizing Gippsland lakes.
During your journey, make a point to visit the fascinating Krowathunkoolong Keeping Place in Bairnsdale. This cultural center provides profound insights into the ancient connections that the indigenous Gunnai/Kurnai people have with the region, spanning tens of thousands of years.
Immerse yourself in the rich history and heritage of the area, as you learn about their deep-rooted ties to the land through informative exhibits and engaging presentations. Gain a new perspective on the significance of the region, and appreciate the deep cultural legacy that has shaped it for millennia.
Shortly before reaching Lakes Entrance, the village of Metung is a lovely base from which to explore Gippsland’s waterways, with several good eateries and boat hire. Nearer to the border, two coastal parks, Cape Conran and Croajingalong, encompass windswept beaches, quiet coves, rocky headlands and significant native wildlife. On either side of the Victoria / New South Wales border are historic lighthouses, Point Hicks in Croajingalong and Greencape, south of Eden, in Ben Boyd national park. Both are top whale watching spots.
Whale watching is a prime feature of much of the NSW south coast, particularly between September and December when humpbacks are returning to Antarctica with their calves. In Eden, a whaling centre until the 1930s, a siren is sounded every time there is sighting out in Twofold Bay. Eden also holds an annual whale festival (on 1 November in 2014).
Along the Sapphire Coast, a scenic drive links the seaside towns of Merimbula, Tathra and Bermagui and the Mimosa Rocks national park, with its secluded beaches, coastal walking trails and the eponymous lichen-covered boulders. Beyond Bermagui, a short detour inland leads to Central Tilba, a National Trust-listed village full of nick-nack shops and cheese and fudge stores.
Embark on an extraordinary coastal journey along the Princes Highway, tracing a path that winds through picturesque lakes, over rivers, and past charming towns like Narooma, Moruya, and Bateman's Bay. Further along, veer off to Pebbly Beach for an incredible encounter with its renowned "surfing kangaroos," a spectacle where these marsupials gather by the ocean to enjoy some vegetation.
Located just three hours south of Sydney, Jervis Bay offers an array of enticing attractions. Immerse yourself in the beauty of Hyams Beach, hailed as one of Australia's finest stretches of sandy shoreline. As you explore the area, embark on a captivating dolphin watching cruise or explore the depths of the ocean through the state's premier diving spots. To top it all off, brace yourself for a truly theatrical climax as you traverse the breathtaking Sea Cliff Bridge, a mesmerizing 680-meter drive that gracefully curves around the cliffs north of Woolongong.
Three must-dos
Skipper your own boat on Gippsland Lakes: It takes five minutes instruction from Riviera Nautic at Metung (rivieranautic.com.au) to prepare for a sunny morning put-putting among these calm waterways. In three hours I get as far as Barrier Landing, where I stroll through dunes onto Ninety Mile beach, which I have to myself. Back on the lake, I dawdle past squadrons of pelican, black swans and dolphin pods. It’s a relaxing gear change from driving the coastal road.
Trek to Point Hicks lighthouse: Getting to the start of this walk, along an unsealed 45km road through Croajingalong’s forested slopes, is part of the adventure. The 4.5km return trek winds behind beaches framed by granite boulders before ascending to the lighthouse, reaching 37m above a rocky headland that was Captain Cook’s first sighting of the Australian mainland, in April 1770. Weekend tours at 1pm.
Visit the Eden killer whale museum: “Which is the second most intelligent creature on the planet?” asks guide Barry Smith during our tour before answering his own question: the killer whale. There is plentiful evidence for his claim, including the symbiotic relationship between killer whales (actually the largest dolphins) and man going back to early Koori habitation of this area.
In the 1800s, the European settlers leveraged their relationship with the indigenous fauna to exploit baleen species for their yield of oil, which was heavily used in lighting and a variety of industrial applications. Local killer whale pods, expertly managed by the female leaders, skillfully guided larger cetaceans, like humpbacks, into the confines of Twofold Bay. Exhausted and helpless, the large whales fell easy prey to the settlers’ deadly harpoons. As a gesture of gratitude and respect, the victorious whalers would offer the vanquished humpback's lips and tongue, a delicacy for the killer whales, as reward. Take a deeper dive into this intriguing slice of history at the Killer Whale Museum. Tickets priced at $9.
Where to eat
Taking a break on the initial section of the road from Melbourne is made all the more attractive thanks to Gippsland’s only hatted restaurant, Neilsons in Traralgon. Set in the front-room of a period Californian bungalow, innovative dishes include Campari cured salmon with dill, squid ink, local prawns and turnip and a crunchily textured pot roast cauliflower with lemon myrtle, hazlenuts, leek oil and pear vinegar. Presentation on earthy stone slabs rounds off a thrilling gastronomic experience.
It’s hard to go wrong eating anywhere in the little but lively lakeside village of Metung. Bancroft Bites is a convivial café delivering fresh, locally sourced fare morning, noon and night. The sticky date pudding is particularly irresistible. Across the street is the Metung Galley where the Middle Eastern eggs topped with spinach, feta and dukkah set you up beautifully for a day on the lakes. The lakefront Metung Hotel has one of Australia’s finest pub settings and top-quality tavern food and wine, including spicy seafood laksa, packed with fresh oysters, mussels, scallops, prawn and salmon.
As you travel the East Gippsland coastline nearing Cape Conran, you wouldn't want to miss a relaxing sunset experience at Marlo Hotel, perfectly positioned overlooking the Snowy River mouth. Journeying into New South Wales, you'll encounter an array of dining options nestled in Eden's Snug Cove Harbour, among which, 'A Taste of Eden' stands out for its commitment to locally sourced, sustainable cuisine. Oyster enthusiasts, be prepared for a delight; consider venturing on the oyster trail from Pambula right up to the Shoalhaven, offering regular tastings for its visitors. At the Sapphire Coast venture, a visit to the rustic yet sophisticated Wharf Locavore, situated on the historic Tathra quay, is essential. Lastly, Bermagui boasts harbourside dining with a modern twist at Il Passagio and a sweet treat is waiting for you at the Gelati Clinic to round off your culinary experience.
A three-hour jaunt north from Sydney, the renowned British chef, Rick Stein manifests his culinary prowess at Bannisters. Nestled in Mollymook, his elite restaurant offers an effusive tribute to the South Coast's maritime delicacies, which have been his favorite since the 1960s. The quality of even the pub grub here is undeniably top-notch. Shaving off an hour of the journey towards Sydney leads to Nowra. Although it was once considered a less than desirable location, Chef Dave Campbell has breathed new life into it. He has sprinkled some South American flavors and charm across Wharf Rd restaurant, which proudly sits next to the Shoalhaven River. The menu is a gastronomic journey, from the traditional ceviche, to a unique kebab-style Alpaca, and the local favorite from Jervis Bay – a squid stuffed with black pudding and cancha corn nuts complemented beautifully with squid ink. This organic, flavor-rich, Campbell-inspired tasting menu is truly a masterpiece.
Accommodation Suggestions
For exquisite waterfront stays, consider The Moorings located in the charming Metung village. These luxury apartments offer more than just a place to sleep; they are a pampered and well-equipped haven for travellers. Perhaps you'd prefer a closer touch to nature? Look no further than the eco-friendly tents at the sprawling 11,000-hectare coastal park, Cape Conran Wilderness Retreats. Here, you will share your nights with native wildlife including potoroos and wombats, truly immersing yourself in Australia's natural beauty. To enhance your camping adventure, in-tent massages by a local therapist and an authentic coffee machine in the nearby camp kitchen are also available.
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Ideal Time to Travel
The route from Melbourne to Sydney boasts attractions and experiences all year round. However, for those yearning quiet sandy shores and the thrill of spotting whales, winter offers the perfect setting. Conversely, if you prefer basking in the sun, eating meals in the open air, and a wide range of lodging alternatives, just before the school holidays in early December would be ideal. For more insight, check out inspiredbygipsland.com.au, visitvictoria.com and visitnsw.com