Rondo is a venue that inspires lingering, allowing patrons to become intimately familiar with the wine list - an experience currently postponed due to pandemic-imposed restrictions.
No one needs to be told again about the grim landscape of 2020, especially the substantial toll it took on the hospitality industry throughout London. The year started out positively, with an array of exciting new restaurant openings, but the COVID-19 lockdown quickly put a damper on the excitement. After a brief summer solace, a 10pm curfew was enforced, followed by a series of escalating restrictions - Tier 2, Tier 3 and currently, Tier 4.
However, against all odds, a remarkable number of recent additions to London’s dining scene have managed not only to survive but also adapt to the ever-varying regulations. One such newcomer that has made a significant impact is nox paddington, which, despite everything, has found ways to welcome guests and serve up memorable experiences in a safe environment. Once dining out becomes a possibility again, there are definite must-visits lined up, some even warranting a journey to the heart of the city solely to relish a meal at their table.
For those planning a gastronomic tour or a staycation in the capital, tophotels.com offers a wealth of options for accommodation that place you in the vicinity of these resilient and innovative dining destinations. It's an ideal way to support local businesses and enjoy the diverse cultures and cuisines that London has to offer.
Here is a selection of the leading restaurant and bar openings in London from 2020. Let’s look forward to what 2021 will bring.
Kol
Kol presents an eagerly anticipated venture by renowned Mexican chef Santiago Lastra, who previously worked closely with Rene Redzepi at NOMA Mexico and showcased his talents at Carousel residencies. With a tasteful blend of potted plants and antique jugs, the elegant space in Marylebone is adorned with warm, earthy tones, while a vibrant and bustling open kitchen takes center stage across three islands. Venture downstairs and you'll find a chef's table and the Mezcaleria bar, offering an impressive selection of artisan mezcals, rare agave spirits, and delicious substantial snacks.
As an added delight, make sure to take a moment to appreciate the rich culinary history and contemporary ambiance of Kol's space. Explore the link below to catch a glimpse of the exquisite decor and immerse yourself in the flavors brought to life by chef Santiago Lastra.
Set menus offer a choice of five or six courses (vegetarian also available) that will sweep you through a series of Mexican classics done anew. The seared lamb leg tostada is a nod to North Mexico’s meat ceviches –souped-up with guajillo mayonnaise, pickled gooseberries and wild herbs. Grilled octopus is full of flavour and comes with a tiny pair of gold scissors to cut slices to your preference, before lathering in filthy-fabulous bone marrow and seaweed macha and stuffing into a tortilla. The classic tamal gets the dessert treatment: think rich chocolate cake steamed and served in a corn husk. Wines are predominately biodynamic and sourced from Central and Eastern Europe, and make for interesting pairings, but it’s the house margarita with yuzu sake and a selection of amazing mezcals that really sings.
Top Recommendation: Frankly speaking, it would be a colossal mistake not to indulge in the six-course meal that includes the divine langoustine tacos. These generously sized, subtly-seasoned treasures are presented on first-rate sourdough tortillas partnered with cooling slices of sauerkraut. However, the highlight has to be the langoustine heads, barbecued to perfection, brimming with the smoky flavor of chilli sea buckthorn. Take one, squeeze its essence over your taco like a lime and savour the leftover juices.
New intriguing fact: The concept of using langoustine heads instead of discarding them is an innovative step towards reducing food waste in the culinary world, showcasing their dedication to sustainability.
Another fresh detail: Their specialty sourdough tortillas are handmade daily, providing a fresh base for the spiced langoustine.
Location and Contact Info: Visit us at 9 Seymour Street, Marylebone, London W1H 7BA. We can be contacted at 020 3829 6888, or via our website at kolrestaurant.com for online reservations or queries.
As Rene Redzepi's right-hand at NOMA Mexico, Santiago Lastra enters London's culinary scene with his innovative gastronomy at Kol.
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The Allure of Muse
Mere weeks into the fresh year, London was graced with a remarkable newcomer in the culinary scene. Esteemed chef, Tom Aikens, breathed life into his newest gastronomic venture, a cosy fine-dining spot boasting a maximum seating of 25 guests nestled within a tri-level Belgravia mews apartment, accessible through a charming cobblestone path. Its outward simplicity is strikingly contrasted by the opulence found within it - an enchanting canvas of marble, richly hued woods, and tranquil jewel tones adorning its interior.
Debuting last year, the menu comprised dishes bearing poetic names, each one an homage to experiences from Aikens' own life. Many elements paid tribute to Norfolk, the county where he spent his formative years. Despite facing initial criticism and being deemed pretentious, Aikens remained unfazed and stood firm in his food philosophy. He masterfully weaves a narrative of his life through the immersive flavors and artistic presentation found within the six-course or 10-course tasting menus, each course unveiling another chapter like a delightful pop-up book, allowing customers to embark on a delicious journey propelled with steadfast finesse.
Prepare your taste buds for an extraordinary culinary journey at London's best new restaurant openings. Begin with an exquisite venison tartare, a tantalizing prologue that sets the stage for what's to come. As you wait in anticipation, indulge in a warm bread with a treacle-meets-stout crust, generously slathered with the velvety smoothness of soft chicken butter.
One of the highlights of the menu is "The Essence," a delicate exploration of an ingredient's purest form. In this case, it's the vibrant beetroot, presented in three distinct variations, accompanied by a subtle pine aroma in the background. Each bite is an invitation to savor the very essence of this versatile vegetable.
Another remarkable dish is "Playing with Fire," featuring a succulent rare steak sourced from ex-dairy cows. Complementing this centerpiece is a perfectly fried fat chip and a baked onion stuffed with mince and Norfolk grains. This plate exemplifies the restaurant's commitment to simplicity, the concept, and flawless execution.
London is buzzing with excitement for these exceptional culinary experiences, where every dish is a testament to the ingenuity and passion of the talented chef. Don't miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in a world of flavors and textures that will leave you craving for more.
Spotlight on the "Sea Lavender", inspired by Aiken's paternal ship, intricately placed within a custom-made bowl by Jose Carvalhas, where luscious chunks of mackerel bask in a soulful broth crafted from its very bones, infused with the zest of kombu, subtle undertones of daikon and a sprinkle of sesame. Amidst a medley of flavours standing out - the mellow sweetness contrasting the mild bitterness, highlighted with hints of mirin and soy - the dish strikes an impressive harmony. Even this usually unconvinced mackerel critic was left astounded.
Get a taste of it yourself at 38 Groom Place, Belgravia, London SW1X 7BA. For reservations, call 020 3301 2903 or visit musebytomaikens.co.uk. Remember, the best food adventures are those yet to be tasted! If you're a seafood lover, this is one destination that surely shouldn't be missed on your culinary tour of London.
Gazing out from the culinary heart of Muse, a magnificent eatery curated by Tom Aikens offers an awe-inspiring vista.
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Wildflower Unveiled
Nestled inside the Buck Street Market of Camden - a bustling hub of informal food outlets encased in vibrantly painted, reused shipping containers – is where an environmentally conscious eatery unimaginatively known as Wildflower can be discovered. This unique establishment is the brainchild of chef Adrian Martin, a pioneer in his craft with a distinguished culinary history at places like MacNean House and the Michelin-starred Bon Appetite back in his native Ireland. This marks his first foray into the British Isles, creating a restaurant where eco-friendliness and the art of foraging stand at the center of the diner's experience. Moreover, a noteworthily superior sound insulation installed on the glass front ensures the lively ambient music from outside does not interrupt the refined atmosphere inside Wildflower.
London's best new restaurant openings offer a diverse range of delectable options for food enthusiasts. While lunch may present a concise selection of two choices per course, it is the enchanting evening tasting menu that truly captures the imagination. One intriguing dish combines the surprising union of oyster leaf-infused ice cream with raw turnip and apple, presenting a delightful play on flavors.
Exploring further, a tantalizing bull’s heart tomato salad emerges as a refreshing revelation, enlivened by the delightful addition of fermented yarrow and cultured cream. Meanwhile, the barbecued lobster, enhanced by a tangy wallop of ranch dressing, delights both the palate and senses.
As the meal progresses, the caramel tart emerges as a true triumph, with its thin, buttery crust enveloping a divinely sweet filling that seems to vanish effortlessly upon contact with the tongue.
The gastronomic experience at London's best new restaurant openings is not limited to the cuisine alone. The visual presentation is equally captivating, with each meticulously crafted dish served on exquisite stoneware designed by Sally George from The Kiln Rooms in Peckham.
Despite the delay caused by the unfortunate circumstances surrounding the coronavirus pandemic, the anticipation and eagerness to visit Wildflower were justified with a dining experience worth savoring.
Top Pick: The choice wasn't straightforward, but the salt-cradled celeriac triumphed, despite the extra £15. This delicacy tantalizes with the allure of a sweet, nutty flavor, further enhanced by the luxuriant richness of an ample brown butter sauce. Textural variety and subtle undertones of earthiness are introduced by late-harvest Australian truffles sliced to perfection.
Location and Contact: Find us at Unit 2.16-2.17, in the vibrant Camden (Buck Street) Market, located on Camden High Street, London NW1 8QP. Reach us at 07799 357396 or visit our website at wildflowerrestaurant.co.uk.
Wildflower represents the inaugural UK venture for owner and chef Adrian Martin, a dining facility where sustainability and foraging take prominent roles
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The Alluring Louie
Experience the charm and excitement of dining at Louie, a brainchild of the esteemed Guillaume Glipa and Laurent de Gourcuff. Famous for their work with Chiltern Firehouse and Paris Society respectively, these culinary maestros have once again bestowed upon us their rendition of a must-go restaurant that boasts a vibrant and engaging ambiance. Flying high on expectations, the restaurant deserves an applause for its audacious location - the erstwhile residence of the revered L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Covent Garden. The distinctive fusion of the New Orleans, Paris, and New York's influences truly creates an environment that's intriguing yet familiar, fashionable yet hospitable. The interiors offer a sophisticated vibe with its two-tiered dining room adorned with wicker seating, enticingly lit lanterns along with a raw bar that steals the show and, not to forget, a jukebox to add some spice. Further, you can elevate your dining experience by stepping into the rooftop area, where you can enjoy cocktails while immersing yourself in the ever-soothing sounds of live jazz.
Indulge in pre-dinner cocktails at this standout restaurant, where mixologists have crafted unique and enticing flavors. Try the Madame Laveau for a vibrant twist on a margarita, infused with hints of liquorice and complemented by a black salt rim. Alternatively, the rum Scoobilou offers a sophisticated butterbeer-like experience, with notes of burnt corn and nutmeg.
Under the guidance of esteemed chef Slade Rushing, known for his expertise in New Orleans cuisine, the kitchen at this restaurant transforms every dish into a culinary masterpiece. The menu constantly evolves, tempting food enthusiasts to explore each and every dish. Expect a fine dining experience infused with bold flavors and heartfelt passion.
For seafood lovers, the king crab with brown butter vinaigrette and chives is an absolute delight. The succulent crab meat perfectly harmonizes with the luxurious vinaigrette, creating a melt-in-your-mouth sensation. The green beans dressed with fiery mustard dressing and saffron potatoes pack a flavorful punch, elevating simple vegetables to extraordinary heights.
Butter poached oysters are taken to new heights by pairing them with delicate streaky bacon crisps. The rich and creamy oysters are given a crispy and savory contrast, resulting in a truly sensational combination of textures and flavors.
With a vibrant atmosphere and dishes that exemplify the soulful essence of fine dining, this restaurant promises to exceed all expectations. Don't miss the opportunity to immerse yourself in this remarkable culinary experience.
Featured dish: A novel take on barbecue lobster, Louisiana style. The lobster is indeed sublime, yet it's the accompaniment that's truly exceptional. Imagine a sauce that beautifully blends astral hues of burnt orange with luscious lemon, creamy butter, and classic Creole spices to create a captivating symphony of flavours. The starry experience is further enhanced with a crispy baguette slice, perfect for soaking up every scrumptious drop. If you want to enhance the gastronomic delight, complement this with a warm brioche - ensuring no drop of this sensational sauce goes unnoticed.
Location: Nestled between the bustle and charm of West Street, in London, lies the notable restaurant at 13-15, postcode WC2H 9NE. You can connect with them at 0208 0576 500 or visit their website louie-london.com for further details. Its prime location and attractive menu make it one of the outstanding new restaurant openings in the city, worth experiencing for yourself.
If you’re looking for the antidote to lockdown life then Louie is it
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Francois's House
The trendy ambiance of East London has collided with the elegance of Paris in St James's to bring about Francois O’Neill's outstanding new brasserie, Maison Francois. Helming the kitchen is none other than Matthew Ryle, a finalist from the acclaimed show, MasterChef: The Professionals. The eatery remarkably flaunts a vast and grandeur interior, which showcases high ceilings and preserved Art Deco details. The culinary offerings deliver a smorgasbord of comfort cuisine reminiscent of the past (such as celeri remoulade), reinvented classics with their own delightful spin (like bouillabaisse coupled with fennel, providing a seductive base for the fire-grilled red mullet) and contemporary dishes (like the well-loved duo of robust anchovies and creamy ricotta). Mirroring the delight of a cheese-stuffed French pastry, the comté gougères are tantalizing bites of cheesy heaven. Not to be missed is "le pain" - a garlic, spinach, and taleggio flatbread that exceeds expectations with its astonishing fluffiness and rich flavors.
Dessert is perhaps the main event here. Served from a vintage cabinet on wheels, topped with the likes of glistening tarte tatin, and little compartments that house a suite of French favourites; think delicate florentines, madeleines, canelles, truffles. Ices to order are also superb; there’s nothing ‘vanilla’ about the vanilla, and a chocolate and calvados sorbet is ideal sweet digestif territory. It’s not immediately apparent how to navigate the menu, as the list of creative, contemporary veg dishes whispers of small plates, in an otherwise more traditional format. We chose to treat those as spirited sides, and this versatility actually feels quite nicely relaxed.
Expect a formidable and French-centric wine menu, though it delightfully extends to include orange varieties – surprisingly, a glass of Sauvignon can be yours for just £5. Below the main dining space, discover Frank's, a trendy enclave centred around an open bar, offering favourites such as charcuterie and spritzes.
Standout Dish: If traditional vanilla ice-cream tends to bore your palate (To my surprise, I felt I could discern each tiny black speck...) then go for the comté gougères. They are almost too good to split!
Contact Information: 34 Duke Street, St James's, London SW1Y 6DF (020 3988 5777; maisonfrancois.london)
Dessert is perhaps the main event at Maison Francois, served from a vintage cabinet on wheels
The Vibrant Culinary Experience at Barrafina Mariscos
Step into Barrafina Mariscos, the latest addition to the renowned tapas bar chain, where innovative solutions blend seamlessly with traditional Spanish cuisine. In response to the current regulations, Barrafina has ingeniously incorporated stools strategically separated by elegant wine buckets, creating a visually appealing and functional seating arrangement that sets the stage for an exceptional dining experience.
As you enter this culinary haven, brace yourself for a sensory journey that transcends the limitations of our uncertain times. The animated shouts of "voy" from the passionate chefs and attentive waiters create an atmosphere of energy and authenticity. The tantalizing aroma emanating from the Josper grill fills the air, while the symphony of clinking glasses amplifies the sense of anticipation.
However, the true star of the show is the food itself. Behind the theatrical facade lies a selection of exquisite dishes that showcase the very best of Spanish gastronomy. From the mouthwatering tapas to the indulgent seafood specialties, every bite is a revelation.
Barrafina Mariscos excels in crafting memorable experiences, where the finest culinary traditions come alive. So, give in to your cravings and embark on an unforgettable journey that nourishes both body and soul.
The menu is predominantly made up of fish and seafood sourced from Spanish and British waters – save for a tortilla, naturally, and a couple of other vegetarian options. Fans of the classic Barrafina set up will probably prefer to order six or so dishes to share: perhaps the quisquilla fritura (£16) – lightly fried blue-bellied shrimp with garlic aioli, to be crunched whole, served on a plate of greaseproof paper like at the marisquerias of Andalucia – the rich prawn tartare swimming in golden oil (£14), or red snapper served in the still-warm pan of a delicate salsa verde (£35). The padron peppers with chips showcases how the Spanish can elevate the most basic ingredients into something sublime.
If you're looking for hearty fare, you might be tempted by the suquet, a traditional sea-to-table dish featuring lobsters, mussels, and potatoes, perfectly complemented by slightly grilled bread. There's also an option for a whole fish to be enjoyed by your party, cooked to your preference in either the Josper oven or sizzled on the ‘plancha’. On my visit, the unique selection of sea bream, blackspot bream, San Alfonsino, and Scorpion fish - each adding its own savory flair. Notably, the San Alfonsino, an unusual radiant red deep-sea fish, is not typically found outside of Spain or Portugal, and the Scorpion fish, once venomous in its living state, is transformed into a sweet and rich delight when cooked. And for those with room to spare, the menu's single yet utterly satisfying meat dish is a Galician blonde steak doused in a roasted shallot and red wine sauce.
Star dish: Worth mentioning is the gambero rosso (£45), a treat for any seafood lover. Six indulgent scarlet prawns are served in a trio of preparations - flavored with crispy garlic chunks, seasoned simply over rock salt, or delicately steamed with seaweed.
Location: Barrafina can be found at 43 Drury Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5AJ. To explore more about their offerings and for reservations, visit their website at barrafina.co.uk.
Barrafina Mariscos is full of theatre– and that's before you even get to the menu
Rondo Restaurant
If circumstances had permitted me to visit Rondo, a charming establishment exuding a sense of nostalgia with its dark ambience and array of oak (ideal for complementing the seasonal shift), located at the base level of The Hoxton hotel in Holborn, a day sooner, I'd probably have enjoyed an extended evening past 10pm. Such is the appeal of this place, enticing you with an adventurous selection of house wines available on demand, encouraging you to savour in the cosy atmosphere until the last light is turned off and the staff are gearing up to call it a day. Unfortunately, recent regulations have curtailed the charm of such magical nights.
Still, with a curfew-friendly 7pm that kicks off with a glass of fruity Devaux Champagne (and Gruyère cheese straws), I found it a treat. The restaurant brings together Will Lander of Quality Chop House with Chris Gillard in the kitchen, ex-St John and EartH Kitchen. “Modern British” has a strange allure: comfortable, accessible, but so often disappointing; Rondo ousts any whiff of the insipid. The pork cheek salad, crispy-chewy meat with roasted shallots and watercress, is a hearty autumnal dish, while a haunch of venison – beautifully pink – finds its earthiness softened by pickled red cabbage. Best advice is to choose who you take with care if you’ve had your eye on the delightful-sounding wild rabbit and bacon pie for two, or expect heartbreak when they go for something else.
Featured Dish: Revel in the succulent Swaledale lamb steeped in a voluptuous sauce amplified by the unexpected sweet burst from pickled raisins. The tender meat nearly falls off the bone. Complement this with a side order of crunchy garlic potatoes meshed with a delectable Arbroath smokie cream, culminating in an unforgettable dining experience that beckons you for another visit.
Location and Contact: Situated at 199-206 High Holborn, Holborn, London WC1V 7BD. For inquiries or reservations, please call 020 7661 3030 or visit thehoxton.com.Did you know? The lamb used in this dish comes from the Swaledale area, renowned for its quality meat. Arbroath Smokie cream is a specialty product made from haddock smoked in a special method exclusive to the Scottish town of Arbroath.
'Modern British' is the headline at Rondo
The Birth of Stanley's
Stanley's, the brainchild of Hugh Stanley, is not just another restaurant. Driven by the culinary expertise of Olivia Burt- a finalist in MasterChef: The Professionals and a veteran of Claridge's renowned kitchen- this place was destined for greatness since its inception. The original plan was to launch this dining haven in the heart of the summer, a time that has now become pivotal due to its secret garden-style courtyard blooming with an array of colorful flowers. This oasis, despite being off the beaten path to the point where finding it can be a challenge, has swiftly turned into a Chelsea hotspot. During my visit on a busy Friday night, the vibrant atmosphere of the place was hard to miss.
London's newest culinary hotspots are making waves with their unique and enticing menus. One such establishment has recently launched a full menu featuring both small plates and larger options. With a range of tantalizing dishes to choose from, it's easy to get carried away and mix and match your selections.
For those seeking a gradual and flavorful dining experience, the smaller portions are a perfect choice. Take, for example, the crab, which can be enjoyed both as a starter with horseradish and green apple, or as a small plate accompanied by potted shrimp on sourdough crumpet. Opting for the latter option allows you to indulge in the delightful combination of flavors, including the freshness of samphire and the subtle floral notes. It truly is a sweet and creamy delight that will leave you wanting more.
Another highlight of this new dining experience is the Westcombe cheddar doughnuts with burnt leek. These warm and velvety treats provide a satisfying richness that is sure to please your taste buds. And don't forget to savor the pillowy buttermilk flatbreads served alongside smooth whipped smoked cod roe, which add a touch of indulgence to your meal.
If you're in the mood for some hearty dishes, why not try the Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms at one of London's best new restaurant openings? These mushrooms are perfectly crispy, thanks to being deep-fried in a delicious batter, and they come accompanied by a smoked mustard cream that adds a delightful kick.
Another standout option on the menu is the barbecued beetroots with hazelnuts and goat's curd. This colorful and flavorful dish is a great choice for those looking for something lighter, yet still packed with taste.
When it comes to drinks, you'll be spoiled for choice. Alongside a great selection of wines, the menu also offers a range of tantalizing options like rose cider, spicy margaritas, and even a house English sparkling wine.
If you're looking to enhance your dining experience, consider reserving a table in the light and airy orangery-style area at the front. With its beautiful green color scheme and an abundance of plants, it creates a truly inviting atmosphere. Alternatively, the back area offers a more intimate and club-like vibe, complete with exposed brick walls and lively animal prints, making it perfect for larger groups.
Highlight: At this place, dessert takes center stage opposed to being a mere endnote in your dining experience. Particularly for those blessed with a penchant for sweet delights, it might very well be the delectable climax of the meal. Burt's dazzling creation, her 'plums and custard', is a celebratory mix blessed with the crunch of a crumbling sable biscuit, making it a must-try for anyone (follow her tip: break it, then go for a deep dig). Equally splendid is the intricate blend of fig leaf, gooseberry, and almond, striking a magical balance of sweet, tangy, fluffy, and crisp textures and flavors.
Details: Head on over to 151 Sydney Street, Chelsea, London SW3 6TN, or reach out at 020 7352 9556. To know more, visit stanleyschelsea.co.uk. The place offers a luxurious blend of flavors that can truly satiate a discerning palate, and is certainly one to add to your list of must-visit spots in London. Did you know that this place sources many of its ingredients locally, ensuring not just taste but sustainability as well?
The expansive and exquisitely decorated open-air courtyard at Stanley's blossomed into a captivating scene amid the growing need for outdoor dining.
Mo Diner: A Delightful Fusion of Mediterranean and North African Flavors
Step into Mo Diner, the latest brainchild of esteemed restaurateur Mourad Mazouz, known for his successful ventures Momo and Sketch in London. Mazouz has once again mesmerized culinary enthusiasts by merging the vibrancy of Mediterranean/North African cuisine with the nostalgic charm of a 1930s diner experience.
In a year dominated by the gloominess of 2020, Mazouz's ability to create a "playful cousin" to Momo's renowned reputation is nothing short of remarkable. The lighthearted and fantastical atmosphere of Mo Diner offers a breath of fresh air, filling a much-needed void in the capital city's diverse dining scene.
Embark on a culinary adventure as Mo Diner takes you on a gastronomic journey, presenting a carefully curated menu that showcases the best of both Mediterranean and North African flavors. Indulge in delectable dishes prepared with Mazouz's trademark whimsy, where each bite carries a delightful surprise.
Immerse yourself in the 1930s diner ambiance, relishing in the nostalgia of bygone eras while savoring bold and innovative flavors. Mo Diner's unique concept is a testament to Mazouz's ability to push the boundaries of culinary experiences, providing a refreshing escape from the monotony of daily life.
So, whether you're a London local or a visiting food enthusiast, make sure to add Mo Diner to your culinary itinerary. Get ready to be captivated by the enchanting fusion of flavors and ambiance that this extraordinary restaurant has to offer.
Strong facets of Mediterranean and Maghrebi cooking run throughout the all-day menu (spicy harira soup, lamb Provençal, Andalusian potatoes) but overall it crosses off many different cuisines: an English fry-up gives way to socca pancakes from Nice, Berber brik pastry followed by a pulled lamb burger (“Lamburgerini”). For all the veneer of playfulness, dishes are taken seriously (running the pass is Eric Chavot, who has gained Michelin stars across the city), and are as delicious as they are fun. Mazouz and designer Brian Roettinger deserve praise for creating a space that packs a colourful wallop – shining Moroccan tiles, palm trees, a palette of yellows and purples – but doesn't overpower the diner tropes of peg letter boards, high stools at the kitchen and tight booths along the wall. It's retro US culture re-energised, and you'll leave its vibrancy feeling much the same – especially after swigging on a few strawberry, coconut and rum ‘hardshakes”.
Highlight:The joy of small plates is the opportunity to graze across a whole menu, so order with abandon. But don’t miss the confit duck – you can trust this classic in the hands of Chavot. The slow-cooked meat eases off the bone, it’s richness mellowed by a sticky pomegranate sauce. Sharp, sweet and one thing you won’t want to share.
Details:23 Heddon Street, Mayfair, London W1B 4BH (020 7434 4040;modiner.london)
Retro US diner meets Mediterranean and North African food. Why not?
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The Rebirth of L'Artigiano
In a surprising development, L'Artigiano, a beloved spot of Longo's, has been reborn. This dining location can be traced back to its humble beginnings as a cozy pasta bar on the bustling Old Street, a hotspot during the midday meal rush. However, Longo's journey led him to relocate to Mexico in 2017, causing the original establishment to close doors. Now, L'Artigiano has found its new home in the posh area of Chelsea, ditching its casual decor to welcome an ambient “contemporary fine dining” atmosphere.
Nothing about its menu is ordinary either. It boasts of unique Italian cuisine, offering regional flavours designed to excite the palate in new and exciting ways. Heading the kitchen is none other than Executive chef Ignacio Ruggiero, playing around with classic recipes and presenting them in unconventional forms. One of his signature dishes is a play on the all’Amatriciana, a traditional Roman pasta sauce known for its smoked pork richness. The revamped sauce now luxuriously coats exquisite gnocchi, maintaining its classic taste while serving an unexpected texture.
Another notable dish is inspired by frisella bread, a local favorite in Longo's home province in Puglia. This bread, which typically resonates with its rural roots, has been transformed into an elegant salad. It partners with tuna, a tangy physalis cream, and earthy oyster mushrooms, making each bite a sensational gastronomic experience.
The ambiance of this restaurant is wonderfully unassuming, featuring a blend of mirrored walls and exposed brick painted in a captivating charcoal grey. The back room, adorned with artificial white petunias cascading around a sky light, offers the best seating experience. However, what truly sets this establishment apart is its impressive wine list, boasting over 150 varieties of Italian wines, with at least 30 available by the glass.
If you're feeling adventurous with your dessert choices, the deconstructed tiramisu delivers a robust coffee flavor but might not be suitable for purists. On the other hand, the chocolate-pistachio dessert showcases an expertly crafted combination of brownie, ice cream, and a luscious warm sauce, creating a seemingly simple yet harmonious blend of various cocoa percentages.
For an unforgettable dining experience in London, make sure to visit this exceptional establishment.
Highlight:During lockdown I was forced to kick my habit of spontaneous restaurant visits when hankering for decent pasta. L’Artigiano’s tagliolini verdi primavera was the showstopper that knocked me off the wagon, so much so that I returned a week later for more of the same. A bundle of silky ribbons to pull apart, draped with buttery green vegetables.
Details:343 Fulham Road, Chelsea, London SW10 9TW (020 3972 9848;lartigianorestaurant.co.uk)