Revitalizing the urban landscape: Residents have been relishing in the tranquility of their city, discovering and embracing parts of their hometown that would typically be overlooked due to the influx of tourists.
Gone are the challenging times? Prior to the global health crisis, Amsterdam, a city with a population of under 900,000, would receive over 9 million tourists annually.
A renewed sense of connection: Katja Brokke, a local writer, was overwhelmed with emotion during a recent bicycle tour of her beloved Amsterdam. She described it as a profound experience that brought tears to her eyes, evoking a deep sense of love for her city that she hadn't felt in years. Reflecting on the past, specifically the vibrant 1980s and '90s, she reminisced about a time when Amsterdam truly felt like her own.
Amsterdam holds a special place in the hearts of its locals, and the emptiness caused by recent events has allowed them to rediscover the city's inherent beauty and charm. As they cycle through its once bustling streets, they are reminded of the vibrant atmosphere that defined their youth, feeling a rekindled connection to their beloved home.
Dam Square: Eva de Vos, a resident residing behind the Royal Palace in Dam Square, expresses her satisfaction with the current state of the city. With the decline in tourist numbers, she has noticed numerous benefits in her daily life. Instead of struggling to find a place to park her bike, she can now conveniently park it in front of her house. Additionally, with fewer tram accidents and less litter to clean up outside her door, Eva experiences a newfound sense of calm and cleanliness in her neighborhood.
Despite the challenges brought about by the pandemic and the decrease in tourism, Amsterdam's residents are finding silver linings amidst the deserted city. Eva's experience highlights the positive changes occurring in Dam Square, where locals have an opportunity to reclaim their space and enjoy a more peaceful environment. The absence of constant foot traffic allows residents, like Eva, to rediscover the charm and tranquillity of their neighborhood. As the city heals and adapts, Amsterdam continues to be a source of inspiration and resilience for its vibrant community.
A couple of weeks after the first coronavirus case arrived in the Netherlands, we were told to stay inside. Bars and schools closed down and my hometown of Amsterdam came to a halt.
After the first feelings of confusion and uncertainty, I slowly got used to the idea. There was a calmness in the streets I hadn’t experienced in years.
In the past decade, Amsterdam has become a hasty and chaotic place, its occupants increasingly short-tempered. The city’s population of 863,000 was annually swollen by nine million tourists.
The shops in the city center were given over to cater to them, selling waffles, souvenirs and cannabis seeds. Stores catering to residents closed down because of extreme hikes in rent and the lack of customers.
More and more, locals have started to avoid the most beautiful part of their city, as its houses were rented out to tourists and expats.
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The center was dying – so much so that the government stopped promoting the whole of Amsterdam as a tourist destination.
I live on the west side of Amsterdam, a neighborhood with fewer tourists and mainly local inhabitants.
Because we have an “intelligent” lockdown, we have been “allowed” to go outside. In the beginning, few people did. Buying groceries or a coffee to go. Or just going for a walk in the park. It became significantly quieter.
But it was nothing compared with what I experienced in the center.
After a few days in lockdown, I jumped on my bicycle and rode to the heart of the city, just for fun – something I haven’t done for years.
I biked across the deserted Dam square and through Damstraat, a road normally packed with tourists wandering around and paying little attention to traffic.
Deep emotion
Dam Square on May 4, prior to National Remembrance Day ceremony that would normally gather crowds in the center of Amsterdam.
I biked through the red-light district, down its small alleyways and across its narrow bridges.
The emptiness revealed the real beauty of this area. And I didn’t have to ring my bell once!
Eventually, I headed home again, via the Zeedijk, a street normally so busy it would be impossible to cycle down.
I had tears in my eyes. A kind of deep emotion I hadn’t felt for a long time: the love for my city. The beauty of it touched me, as it had in my youth – the 1980s and ’90s – when the city was still mine.
And I wasn’t alone.
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Mathys van Abbe, who lives on a boat on the Oudeschans, a wide canal close to the red-light district, feels the same way.
“Before corona, the Nieuwmarkt area and red-light district were flooded with tourists, especially in the last couple of years,” he tells me. “There was litter everywhere and it was stressful, if not impossible, to bike in certain streets.
“Now, the red-light district is a gift to us. There is so much beauty!
“I have more contact with my neighbors, the canals are clearer than ever and the city’s nature is thriving. The constant noise is gone and there is calmness. Amsterdam has a circadian rhythm again. It feels like a little retreat.”
‘Cleaner, quieter, neater’
Amsterdam's deserted red-light district, pictured in April.
Dean Mouhtaropoulos/Getty Images
Van Abbe lives in a busy area, but in a relatively quiet location.
Others living in the middle of the tourist hotspots have had to cope with enormous amounts of visitors every day.
Eva de Vos’s home sits behind the Royal Palace on Dam square.
Before lockdown, she says she could almost literally walk on heads if she left her apartment.
“Now I can park my bike in front of my house, there are fewer accidents with trams and I don’t have to clean the mess on the sidewalk in front of my door every day,” she says.
What it's like to live in Amsterdam's red-light district
“We had to cope with 30,000 pedestrians on a daily basis passing our home. There was litter, noise, shouting people at night. The neighborhood is cleaner, quieter, neater now.”
There is a downside to the absence of tourists. Sales have decreased and stores are going bankrupt.
It has become clearer than ever that life in the city center was all about the visitors.
“Amsterdam is no longer Amsterdam,” De Vos says. “Many shops have closed their doors, I miss the liveliness on the streets. Of course, I like to see tourists coming back to us when this is all over, but only half of what was normal for the past years, please.
“I couldn’t walk for two meters without people asking me the way to their hotel, the red-light district or, of course, the Anne Frank House.”
‘More like a community’
In April 2017, the bustling streets of Amsterdam city center were bustling with activity, as captured in this photo.
In the year 2019, the Anne Frank House, a testament to Amsterdam's rich history, attracted a staggering total of 1.3 million visitors, which translates to 108,000 every month. Now, due to unprecedented circumstances, it has been compelled to shut its doors, which is having a profound impact.
Maatje Mostart, the lead communicator for the institution, shares that a whopping 92% of the footfalls belonged to tourists. Given the museum's unique status as an independent and non-subsidised entity, their financial backbone hinges on their frequency.
With the revenue pipeline run dry in the current scenario, they are digging into their reserves to stay afloat. However, this is deemed sustainable only for so long. To turn the tide, they are putting more emphasis on their digital presence. Visit this link to see how they’ve augmented their online efforts. Keeping safety paramount, they will be reopening their doors on June 1st, in accordance with a carefully planned corona protocol.
Sharon O’Dea lives on the picturesque Bloemgracht canal, just across from the Anne Frank House.
She says the city has lost some of its energy due to the absence of visitors, but this is not without benefits.
“It’s been a case of be careful what you wish for,” she says. “While many find the hordes of tourists annoying – especially the big stag party groups – parts of the city are deserted without them.”
The tourists nobody wants
O’Dea says she enjoys the tranquility.
"Since the pandemic hit, Amsterdam has transformed into a close-knit community," she expresses with enthusiasm. "Shop owners now know me by name, fostering a sense of familiarity and connection. In order to support local businesses, my neighbors and I have embraced delivery services and takeouts, ensuring their survival amidst these challenging times."
An intriguing change has been the resurgence of Dutch as the primary language in cafes and shops, replacing English as the default lingua franca as international visitors dwindle.
O’Dea, a British expatriate, particularly notices this linguistic shift.
"What stands out is the increased usage of Dutch in the streets and businesses," she observes. "Typically, English was the default language due to the abundance of tourists. However, now people initially speak Dutch, only switching to English upon hearing my accent."
These changes affirm the resilience of Amsterdam's locals, who have adapted to the new normal and found solace in their community. As they support local businesses with their patronage and immerse themselves in the local language, the city thrives amidst the challenges it faces, demonstrating the power of unity in difficult times.
Unwritten rules
The bustling streets and vibrant canals of Amsterdam have suddenly become eerily quiet in recent weeks, as the city experiences an unprecedented lull.
While popular attractions such as the iconic Anne Frank House have closed their doors, it's not just the museums that are feeling the impact.
Nik Poldervaart, co-owner of the beloved Café de Kroegtijger, situated on the renowned Zeedijk street, has been forced to halt the flow of beer to his patrons.
Despite having a devoted group of regular customers, Poldervaart acknowledges the absence of tourists who made up a significant percentage of their guests, contributing to a decrease in overall business.
However, as Amsterdam gradually reopens on June 1, the café will only be able to accommodate a limited number of people, following strict safety protocols. Reservations will be necessary, and customers will be required to maintain a safe distance of 1.5 meters from each other.
Amsterdam locals are anticipating the gradual return to normalcy as their deserted city begins to reopen its doors to tourists and visitors. However, there is a sense of concern among some residents that the initial excitement may wane over time.
Reflecting on the impact of overtourism prior to the pandemic, popular establishments like Café de Kroegtijger eagerly await the day when both locals and tourists can once again enjoy the vibrant city center. By encouraging Amsterdammers to frequent these establishments more often, a renewed sense of community can flourish.
Destinations worldwide have made a commitment to tackle the issue of overtourism in 2020, and Amsterdam is no exception. As the city bounces back from the challenging period of lockdown, it is crucial for both residents and tourists to find a balance that preserves Amsterdam's unique charm while still offering a memorable experience to visitors.
As a café owner, I used to avoid this area because I preferred speaking Dutch and being in the company of locals. We recognize the need to attract more residents and discourage visitors who may have a misconception that anything goes here.
In addition, it's essential to educate tourists about the unspoken rules, such as refraining from smoking in public areas near children and avoiding family visits to the red-light district – after all, what purpose does it serve to expose young children to such an environment? Let's also be mindful of our surroundings, ensuring we don't accidentally end up in one of the canals.
While exploring this area, I've come across some interesting details. Did you know that Amsterdam is home to over 165 canals, making it a city full of waterways and picturesque views? Additionally, the red-light district is not only known for its adult-oriented establishments but also houses interesting historical sites and cultural landmarks, making it a unique part of Amsterdam's heritage.
Enjoying the calmness
Another particular touristy place is the Amsterdam Flower Market, near to where Jacqueline Tas has lived for 20 years.
“When I came to live here there was a cheese shop around the corner, and a butcher, a greengrocer, a fish seller, a kiosk where I could buy my newspaper,” she says. “All of those stores are gone now. Also, you hardly see any Amsterdammers from outside the center around here anymore.
“This part of the city became too busy with visitors and I know I shouldn’t say this – because I know the city financially needs tourists – but I am intensely enjoying the calmness and I actually enjoy living here again. We became the quiet part of town.’”
How Amsterdam is fighting back against mass tourism
A peculiarity of the lockdown and the absence of tourists has been the upside-down world it’s created in Amsterdam. While the city center has been almost deserted, the outer areas have remained lively.
And one thing has become clear. The people of Amsterdam are craving more of this peace and quiet. While it might be a little too quiet right now, they’ve had a taste of what life could be like and yearn for a better balance in the ratio of tourists and locals.
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It’s something that the city was attempting to address even before the crisis.
Geerte Udo is CEO of amsterdam&partners, a nonprofit organization that was responsible for marketing the city until 2017. Since then it’s focused on environmental management and guiding visitors to lesser known places.
“Currently, we are working on a sustainable recovery of the visitor economy if measures are liberalized,” Udo says.
Seducing Amsterdammers
As lockdown restrictions in Amsterdam begin to loosen, locals are excitedly reclaiming their city. Weekends now see the return of boats cruising along the canals, bringing a vibrant energy back to the waterways.
The organization behind this initiative is focusing on attracting visitors who bring value to central Amsterdam, including business travelers, while also ensuring that residents are not inconvenienced. They are also specifically targeting locals, encouraging them to rediscover the cultural gems nestled in the old city center and various neighborhoods.
This campaign aims to reignite the connection between Amsterdam's residents and their city, as well as between individuals in the community. With an emphasis on the plethora of cultural offerings, local entrepreneurs, and public spaces, this initiative seeks to entice Amsterdammers to explore and appreciate the rich tapestry their city has to offer.
By fostering a renewed bond between the people, their environment, and their beloved city, this campaign aspires to create a harmonious and thriving Amsterdam for both residents and visitors alike.
Alongside welcoming visitors, Amsterdam locals are actively working towards creating a sustainable economy that encompasses society, environment, and business. The organization amsterdam&partners emphasizes the need for measures that minimize the potential negative impacts of a growing influx of tourists.
This includes measures like the banning of Airbnb in certain areas and addressing monoculture in the city. By implementing these strategies, Amsterdam aims to maintain its unique character and foster diversity.
Interestingly, the COVID-19 pandemic can be seen as an opportunity for the city to reset and start afresh. This period allows Amsterdam, its residents, and organizations like amsterdam&partners to rebuild and reestablish a balance that benefits both locals and visitors alike.