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36 Hours in Quebec City - The New York Times

A Vibrant Blend of History, Culture, and Cuisine in Quebec City

Quebec City effortlessly blends traditional charm with modern innovation, offering a captivating experience that tantalizes the senses. This Francophone capital, a treasure trove of history, boasts centuries-old fortification walls that stand in striking contrast to sleek open-kitchen restaurants and bustling bike paths. Alongside its illustrious neighbor Montreal, Quebec City has emerged as a must-visit destination that continues to captivate travelers.

Renowned for its rich heritage, Quebec City underwent a remarkable transformation leading up to its 400th anniversary in 2008. The city's rejuvenation not only brought forth stunning boutique hotels, beautifully revitalized parks, and gleaming cultural centers but also captured the world's attention and propelled Quebec City into a spotlight that it rightfully deserves. When it comes to lodging, there's a range of unique choices for every traveler. Discover some of the finest accommodations in the region by visiting this comprehensive guide on Tadoussac hotels - http://www.quebechotels.info/en/tadoussac-hotels-16694/. From scenic waterfront properties to charming bed and breakfasts, Tadoussac offers a diverse selection for even the most discerning guests. For travelers who wish to explore more of Canada, Quebec City serves as an excellent starting point. Thanks to its connectivity and location, it's just a short journey away to some of the country's other major cities. With just a few clicks, you can book top rated hotels on tophotels.com, ensuring your Canadian adventure is as comfortable as it is memorable. No matter where your Canadian journey takes you, know that you're booking only the best accommodations available.

The St. Lawrence River gracefully flows alongside Quebec City, lending a picturesque backdrop to its historic, cultural, and culinary wonders. Whether strolling along cobblestone streets or uncovering hidden gems in innovative art institutions, every corner of Quebec City paints a vibrant tapestry that echoes the spirit of the city.

Immerse yourself in captivating history by exploring the formidable fortification walls, offering a glimpse into Quebec City's past as a strategic military base. Indulge your taste buds in the city's culinary delights, with open-kitchen restaurants inviting you to savor the flavors of Quebec's renowned cuisine.

With its bewitching blend of old-world charm and cosmopolitan energy, Quebec City is a destination that invites exploration and leaves an indelible impression on its visitors.

Friday

3 p.m.
1) Impeccable Traditional Cuisine

Discover the culinary delights of Quebec City, a true gastronomic paradise where French cuisine takes center stage alongside influences from local Quebecois fare and innovative farm-to-table offerings. For a truly authentic experience, begin your gastronomic journey at Café Chez Temporel, nestled on a charming, winding street in Old Quebec (25, rue Couillard; 418-694-1813). This iconic French café, celebrating its 36th year, entices you with its inviting ambiance, perfect for indulging in a delectable croissant (priced at 2 Canadian dollars, similar in U.S. dollars) or savoring a slice of quiche Lorraine paired with a refreshing salad (priced at 8.75 dollars) and a delightful café au lait (priced at 2.75 dollars) as you immerse yourself in the heartwarming blend of folk and French music that accompanies your experience.

Moreover, Café Chez Temporel provides an ideal vantage point for observing the vibrant local scene, making it a must-visit destination.

4 p.m.
2) Discover the City's Historical Walls

Immerse yourself in history as you explore the charming streets of Old Quebec, a designated Unesco World Heritage Site featuring beautiful architecture and 17th-century residences. To truly appreciate the city's rich past while enjoying a breathtaking view of its geography, embark on a small adventure. Begin by climbing the staircase at the intersection of Rue St.-Louis and Côte de la Citadelle, leading you to the expansive grassy walls that encircle the old city. Follow the path along the wall, passing by cannons and locals enjoying various leisure activities such as sunbathing, walking their dogs, and embracing loved ones. Once you reach Rue St.-Jean, you can venture off.

6:30 p.m.
3) CHOCOLATE, BOOKS & BEER

With its colorful brick buildings and fashionable boutiques, bars and restaurants, the hilly Rue St.-Jean, beyond the old city, sheds its tourist tone and becomes the chic St.-Jean-Baptiste neighborhood. Stop at Choco-Musée Érico (634, rue St.-Jean; 418-524-2122; chocomusee.com) for a cocoa history primer and savor a buttery-smooth chocolate filled with pecans and salted caramel. Then peruse the classics and future classics among the secondhand books at the Librairie St.-Jean-Baptiste (565, rue St.-Jean; 581-999-0951; librairiesjb.com), a bookstore-cum-coffee-shop and beer bar. Finally, quench your thirst on the art-filled terrace at Bar Le Sacrilège (447, rue St.-Jean;418-649-1985; lesacrilege.net), with 13 local beers and one cider on tap.

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Welcome to Quebec City — a city that excudes charm, rich in French culture and legacy. Nestled within the province of Quebec, it serves as a beguiling fortress that speaks French in its most profound sense.

8:30 p.m.
4) CULINARY EXPEDITION PAIRED WITH WINE

Dining at Le Moine Échanson (lemoineechanson.com) is not just about the gastronomic delights, but it's an affair with wine. This quaint eatery, which has been serving food lovers for half a decade, assures a wine-centric dine-out service. The waitstaff, proficient in their knowledge about wines, support this claim. From delectable crème brûlée au foie gras to duck confit prepared in the Catalan way, these showstoppers from the kitchen become even more delightful when accompanied by a curated selection of organic and natural wines. The menu - periodically refreshed to sync with the change of seasons - keeps guests coming back for more. Expect to spend roughly around 120 dollars for an evening of fine dining for two, including wine.

For a laid-back evening packed with nostalgia and delectables from the Quebec kitchen, look no further than La Cuisine. Situated at 205, rue St.-Vallier Est (barlacuisine.com), the place is modeled to resemble a throwback student's apartment, complete with retro furniture (which, by the way, are up for grabs!). The open-plan kitchen is a busy hub that reminisces past decades with an old-fashioned stove and a duo of microwaves, churning out dishes that remind you of home. Treat your taste buds with a croque monsieur or hearty casseroles for an approximate price of 30 dollars for two people, local beer included. Round off the evening with the live D.J., company of the hip crowd, and a thrilling game on the Nintendo – all part of the package!

23:00
5) CABARET DE QUÉBEC

Embrace the local nocturnal scene at Le Cercle (228, rue St.-Joseph Est; 418-948-8648; le-cercle.ca), an artfully designed hotspot that seamlessly blends industrial and modern aesthetics. Born out of a successful 2009 union of a wine bar and a performance spot, it offers a stage for live indie, rock, dance and folk musicians to shine, and also a platform for films, comedy, and theatre. (Entry fees differ, ranging from being complimentary to 25 dollars.) This uniquely artistic venue showcases local art pieces and captivating video projections. Wine enthusiasts will appreciate the well-stocked cellar boasting of 2,000 different wines, and for those feeling peckish, a kitchen dishes out late-night delights, including an enticing plate of chilled smoked mussels.

Saturday

11 a.m.
6) INDIE REVIVAL

Start your day in the St.-Roch neighborhood, where urban decay has yielded to a gentrifying blend of government investment and pioneering artists and entrepreneurs. Grab a bite at Bistrot Le Clocher Penché (203 rue St.-Joseph Est, 418-640-0597, clocherpenche.ca), a bistro whose name is an homage to “the leaning steeple” across the street. The blood sausage, soft-boiled egg and poached pear over a puff pastry (17 dollars, coffee and yogurt parfait included) is excellent. Then wander into the nearby Boutique Lucia F (422, rue Caron;418-648-9785), a vintage clothing shop, with nary an item over 100 dollars. Just down the Rue St.-Joseph is Morgan Bridge (367, rue du Pont; 418-529-1682, morganbridge.ca), a gallery of Quebec City and Montreal street and comic art that sells locally made T-shirts, music and books. For a high-brow alternative, visit La Chambre Blanche (185, rue Christophe-Colomb Est; 418-529-2715; chambreblanche.qc.ca), an art collective that features the work of its current international resident artists and displays the portfolios of those it has hosted since 1982.

3 p.m.
7) HYPERLOCAL BEER

La Barberie (310, rue St.-Roch; 418-522-4373; labarberie.com), in the St.-Roch neighborhood, is one of the best and most beloved among a growing number of microbreweries in the city, with a recently expanded outdoor patio. The cooperative brews 30 to 50 beers a year, ranging from a tasty India Pale Ale to sangria-, chardonnay — and tea-flavored varieties. For the full experience, order a 16-dollar carousel with five ounces of each of the eight different beers on tap.

8 p.m.
8) A HOT TICKET

Bistro B (1144 Avenue Cartier;418-614-5444; bistrob.ca), the elegantly modern yet cheerfully communal new restaurant from François Blais — the rock-star chef who opened Panache, one of the city’s most renowned dining spots — has superb food, design and service. The menu changes daily, but you can’t go wrong ordering the tartare du jour and the duck breast, which on a recent night was served in a white wine sauce with a butternut squash purée and purple broccoli. For dessert, try the cheesecake, heavy in chocolate, with an accent of raspberry sorbet. Dinner for two, with wine, is roughly 130 dollars. Reservations recommended.

10:30 p.m.
9) EXPERIENCE THE NIGHTLIFE

A leisurely stroll down the adjacent Grande-Allée will bring you to a mesmerizing array of nightclubs, renowned for attracting an upper-class clientele, exotic vehicle enthusiasts and spectacular aerial artists. You should explore Savini Resto-Bar Vinotèque (savini.ca, entry at no cost) or Maurice Nightclub (mauricenightclub.com, with admission ranging from complimentary to $5). Don't pass up a visit to Chez Ashton (chez-ashton.com), a local favourite stop for a delectable late-night poutine, a classic Québécois indulgence of fries drenched in a rich gravy and cheese curds.

SUNDAY

9:30 a.m.
10) EXPLORE LOCAL MARKETS

Venture into the Rue St.-Paul in the Old Port neighborhood where a treasure trove of art, antiques and quaint trinkets await. Machin Chouette (machinchouette.com), French for "Cute Machine," is an innovative design shop where antiquity fuses brilliantly with modern creativity, such as a quirky lamp made from a vintage tricycle sold at $620. For foodies, a jaunt across the road to Le Marché du Vieux-Port (marchevieuxport.com) is a must. It's a bustling marketplace where chefs and tourists alike delight in an array of local delights including breathtaking displays of seafood, meats, dairy products, fresh produce and mouth-watering pastries.

12 p.m.
11) COASTAL EXPLORATION

One of the most thrilling ways to experience the charm of Quebec is through a bike ride. Rent a high-performing hybrid bike for 18 dollars for a duration of two hours from Vélo Passe-Sport Plein Air, located at Old Port (80, rue Quai St.-André; Phone: 418-692-3643; Visit: velopasse-sport.com). Use this opportunity to explore the picturesque waterfront paths leading to Baie de Beauport, a park known for its recreational activities including kayaking, pedal boating, and sailboat rentals.

As you continue your journey, you'll reach Parc Linéaire, a park featuring an extensive network of walking and bicycle paths tracing the St. Charles tributary of the magnificent St. Lawrence River. This scenic route is interspersed with lush gardens and lively scenes of children flying kites, providing a heartwarming culmination to your day's adventure. The city of Quebec is famed for its historical heritage sites and this tour provides a glimpse into its natural treasures.

ESSENTIALS

With its stylish vibes, the 95-room Auberge Saint-Antoine (8, rue St.-Antoine;888-692-2211; saint-antoine.com) showcases a unique blend of contemporary charm built around an antique cannon fortification, located conveniently at the junction of Old Port and Old Quebec. Each room is adorned with locally found artifacts like coins and cannonballs, rates starting at 169 Canadian dollars. The acclaimed Panache restaurant resides within the hotel premises. Complementary Wi-Fi and access to a fitness center and an on-site cinema are also available to the guests.

Set atop Old Quebec, the majestic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac (1, rue des Carrières;866-540-4460; fairmont.com/frontenac) offers 618 rooms to its patrons. Established in 1893, the hotel is a palace providing an authentic royal experience. Double room prices commence at 199 dollars. Did you know that this monumental palace was designated as a National Historic Site of Canada in 1981; and the Auberge Saint Antoine was recognized by Condé Nast in 2018 for its exceptional hospitality?